[Frameworks] 16mm Splicer

[Tom Whiteside]

The Kodak splicer uses Kodak Press tapes, they come individually wrapped in paper and are applied somewhat like a bandaid. Press tapes come in different sizes for 8mm, super8, and 16. The "universal" model of press tape splicer cuts all three formats. The curve in the 16mm cut of a press tape splicer is quite a jolt on screen, and unless you want that visible jolt I wouldn't use press tapes.

I use double-sided tape splices for material that is going to be run through the projector many times; if I'm just trying something to see how it works then a single-sided tape splice is fine. Other than the Kodak, tape splices are cut right on the frame line, so if you want to change a cut you can take the tape off and both pieces of film are ready for a different edit, you don't lose a frame.

Some projectors have a problem with tape splices, depending on the pressure plate in the gate. The splices should run smoothly through a properly adjusted projector, but if a projector is finicky you are going to have more trouble with double sided splices than with single sided ones.

A friend who has shot and edited video for many years was in my studio recently, I was talking with him while I was working at the editing bench (16mm film). He surprised me with an audible GASP when I used scissors to cut a piece of film to prepare for an edit. He said it seemed so violent. I still can't get over that. He uses that little razor blade in FCP all the time!

Tom        Durham, NC


From: frameworks-bounces at jonasmekasfilms.com [mailto:frameworks-bounces at jonasmekasfilms.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Timmins
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2012 5:10 AM
To: FrameWorks
Subject: Re: [Frameworks] 16mm Splicer

Hi,

Thanks for the help on splicers. All very useful! I actually think I have the Kodak press tape splicer somewhere. After googling it I remember getting one in with a box of super 8 stuff ages ago. I'll have to go and have a look for it. What kind of tape does it use?

How can you tell the difference visually between the one/two sided Catozzo splicers? Is one recommended over the other or are they pretty much identical aside from the little bit of extra tape you can cut off/fold over on the double.

Todd, I might be interested in the splicer although you'll have to give me a price because I'm really not versed in 16mm equipment.

Best
Kevin


> From: hellbox at agit-prop.com<mailto:hellbox at agit-prop.com>
> To: frameworks at jonasmekasfilms.com<mailto:frameworks at jonasmekasfilms.com>
> Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2012 20:22:08 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Frameworks] 16mm Splicer
>
>
>
> The blades and punches can be sharpened, and they mostly likely will
> need it if you buy a used splicer. Disassemble it and take the blades
> and punches to a place that sharpens saws and industrial cutters. But
> explain to them what and how it cuts. The punches need to be ground
> from the inside of the little V to maintain the outer profile. The
> blades should be ground from the outside, with minimal bevel on the
> inside faces.
>
> Clean the rest with acetone to remove the tape gunk.
>
> The actual film plate in the base of the splicer is the other half of
> the cutting surface, but it wears less than the blades and punches if
> everything is properly aligned. If the edges of the plate and/or the
> perf holes are excessively worn, you'll never get a clean splice.
>
> The blades are spring steel, slightly curved to align with pressure to
> the base plate. Dullness is more of an issue there than alignment. As
> the baseplate wears to less than 16mm, the blades just take a wee bit
> of film off with the tape. If the perf holes in the plate are
> oversized, you can't make the punches bigger. Just pick the hanging
> chads off with tweezers.
>
> I have one of the double sided 16mm splicers I will probably never
> use... If anyone needs it, make me an interesting offer.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Todd Eacrett
> Victoria, BC, Canada
>
> On Fri, 1 Jun 2012 19:31:40 -0400, David Tetzlaff <djtet53 at gmail.com<mailto:djtet53 at gmail.com>> wrote:
> There are actually different kinds of guillotine (Catozzo-type)
> splicers, one designed mainly for making workprint splices (one sided),
> and another designed for making projector splices (two-sided): though
> you can use either for the other with reduced convenience. The
> two-sided model cuts the tape with a flap to the bottom that you just
> fold over to cover the other side. To make a one-side splice with it,
> you have to trim off the flap. To make a two-sided splice with the
> one-side splicer, you have to turn the film over and around and repeeat
> the process on the other side -- it was easier with double perf, but
> hah, those were the days.
> >
> > The problems with guillotine splicers: * the blades that cut across
> > the width of the splicing tape get dull and misaligned, but it's
> > pretty easy to do it manually with an xacto knife
> > * the punches that put sprocket holes in the tape often leave
> > little pieces hanging, and they're a pain in the butt to trim
> >
> > The problem with Rivas splicers:
> > * You have to be deft enough to get the holes in the tape lined up
> > with sprocket holes, and the tape and film edges straight. Almost all
> > the Rivas splices I've seen in rental prints are crooked.
> >
> >
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>
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