[Frameworks] editing 16mm

Roger Wilson rogerdwilson at sympatico.ca
Fri Nov 22 15:51:47 UTC 2013


Hi Kevin,
This is a perfectly fine way to make a black and white film. How do you plan to make your print from the negative? I use a 16mm steenbeck to create my 16mm film prints and have actually used the table to also print a sound track onto my 16mm film prints. I edit my negatives using a guillotine splicer with regular 16mm splicing tape. The main thing is to place the tape down on the film so the edges of the tape align to the frame lines as much as possible. However I find when printing with a steenbeck and running the film through the table at its highest speed helps in reducing the visibility of tape and splices in the final print.  
You can create A&B rolls and insert black leader in between shots to reduce the tape/splices but I really think its not necessary considering you can eliminate it during printing if done correctly. Check out this link, http://vimeo.com/78787110 this short has clips from a number of my films and all the black and white films you see here the prints were created using using this process. The final clip is of my most recent b&w film print Against the Grain. Both sound and picture were printed onto the release print using a steenbeck.  
I can send you more info if you want it, do you have access to a steenbeck? 

Roger D. Wilson613 324 - 7504rogerdwilson at sympatico.cahttp://www.rogerdwilson.ca
Without failure you can never achieve success. I have based my process and my career as an experimental film artist on this statement; and I welcome it as it pushes me forward as an artist to try something different, something new. 

> From: kevin at videohaiku.com
> Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2013 09:15:07 -0600
> To: frameworks at jonasmekasfilms.com
> Subject: [Frameworks] editing 16mm
> 
> Hello Frameworks!
> 
> I have two questions:
> 
> 
> 1. I'm planning to edit some black and white 16mm negative by hand and I'm looking for advice on how to make the splices as invisible as possible. 
> 
> My plan is to edit the negative and make a contact print for a positive final film. Is this crazy? Mainly I want to do it all myself, and I don't want to mess around with optical printing or a two-strip hot-splicing process.
> 
> My goal isn't a perfectly clean, seamless print, but I'm wondering if there are any tips I should follow. I heard a rumor once that Brakhage would include frames of black leader in between shots to make splices less visible - but that could be just a dumb rumor.
> 
> 
> 2. Does anybody have a favorite supplier of 16mm editing materials - black leader, clear leader, splicing tape? I might even want to buy a Guillotine (but in the meantime I can borrow one). Would prefer a referral to a random ebay purchase.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Kevin Obsatz
> www.videohaiku.com
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