[Frameworks] Kodak neg stocks with a Canon 814 Autozoom?

[ev petrol]

Thanks Scott! 
I've got good exposure from my camera with the reversal stocks - but I cheat a bit, I set the variable shutter to 2 and the exposure adjustment knob to the white dot. I've never used neg with it though, hence my question!All that info is very useful, much appreciatedMoira

moiratierney.net vimeo.com/moiratierney 

    On Saturday, September 4, 2021, 5:03:54 AM GMT+2, Scott Dorsey <kludge at panix.com> wrote:  
 
 > Hey folks,has anyone experience using the 50D, 200T or 500T neg with a 
> Canon 814 Autozoom?I'm wondering if the automatic lightmeter will expose 
> correctly ...?cheers Moira

It doesn't expose correctly with any other stocks, so why would you expect
it to work any better with modern color negative?

The good news is that the exposure latitude of the modern color negative is
a whole lot wider than Kodachrome.  You can overexpose 7203/50D by three stops
with a typical scene and it'll still be okay.  

The problem that you're thinking about is that the ASA rating on the meter
is set by notches cut into the film cartridge; these cameras don't have a
knob on them to set the film speed.  And most of these cameras don't have
a wide range of different speeds.

This gadget will let you figure out what film speed your camera will be set
to with a given cartridge:

http://super8wiki.com/index.php/Super_8_Cartridge_Notch_Ruler

If you look at http://www.super8camera.com/camera/canon-518 it will
give you the list of film speeds that your camera can figure out from the
cartridge notches... and on your camera it is going to be a lot of them..
but with a modern cartridge you cannot necessarily trust the notches so 
always check them.

Now... once you have checked the cartridge and the camera, you can tell
how far off the camera will be, and if you get a stop or two overexposure
you're fine.  If it exposes the modern 50D stock at 25 ASA, you're okay
because you'll consistently be overexposing one stop.  Better to be over
than under with modern negative film.  Hopefully it exposes the modern 50D
stock at 40 ASA but you won't REALLY know until you check the notches yourself.
It can't ever be precisely at 50 ASA because there's no notch pattern for 50.

Once you know the error you can compensate for it too... if the camera 
is set to 25 ASA but the film is 50 ASA, you can take it off automatic and
put it on manual, but instead of directly transposing the f/stop from the 
meter in the finder, close down one stop more than is indicated.  If the
meter says f/4, set the lens to f/5.6.

This whole system was designed to be simple to use... and like most systems
designed to be simple to use it becomes a pain in the neck once you get out
of the narrow range at which it was designed.  But at least your camera has
a pretty wide range of available film speed, which is better than most of
them.

Oh yeah... sanity check.... the f/16 rule is that with any film speed, with
a still camera in bright daylight at noon you set the shutter speed to the
reciprocal of the film speed.  So daylight at noon with 100 ASA film, shoot
f/16 at 1/100 sec.  With 64 ASA film, shoot f/16 at 1/64 sec.  This is not
always precise but it will let you know if you are in the right place.  And
once you get out of bright daylight the level drops fast.

You can use this rule with a little math in your head to work out that since
the camera shutter is about 1/60 sec exposure, full bright sun with 64 ASA
film is f/16... 32 ASA would be f/11... 125 ASA would be f/22.  This gives
you a reasonable check on your meter to make sure you aren't too far off.

This is probably more than you wanted to know.
--scott

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