[Frameworks] RE : Digital Master to 16mm/35mm --› Scan back to Digital

[Colinet andré]

If not frame by frame you’ll need a camera with Crystal sync motor or a motor which can synchronize with the sync signal from the monitor.
All the best.


Envoyé à partir de Courrier pour Windows

De : Anna Kipervaser
Envoyé le :dimanche 5 février 2023 00:55
À : frameworks at film-gallery.org
Objet :Re: [Frameworks] Digital Master to 16mm/35mm --› Scan back to Digital

When I film off of a monitor, I do single frames, like you would on an optical printer. So I move the video one frame, and use a shutter release to take one frame (on I) on the Bolex, then advance the video, etc etc etc. This method requires some obvious things and some not so obvious things: 

- some testing to determine exposure
- making sure the lens of your camera is centered 
- making sure that the monitor is level
- either utilizing an animation motor (Rex 4 or Rex 5 compatible) to allow for a longer exposure OR depending on your film stock, opening up your aperture more than you might want to for focus situations and sharpness. 

This method reproduces exactly what's on screen when done right. So, if you want extra grain, you might wanna use 500T or if you want extra artifacts like age fog, you might wanna use old 500T. 



On Sat, Feb 4, 2023 at 10:57 AM <janis at janislionel.com> wrote:
Hello 
I have an experimental music video project which only operates with analogue/optical effects. It was all filmed with digital cameras high iso - so its veeeeery grainy (purposely so, see sample still). Now I would like to perform a final step over: Print it on 16mm (or 35mm film) and then scan it back in 2k or 4k
There are three ways I imagine this can happen, tho have no previous experience: 
- 16mm print out and scan back to digital: quite expensive to do, even for 4min. 
- 35mm print out and scan back to digital: probably cheaper - though maybe the resolution is too good / the grain no present enough. Then again: Maybe this is just the necessary amount of information/sharpness needed to render the digital grain/artefacts clearly
- Use a Bolex or Krasnogorsk and film the digital master from a screen or projector, develop the film and scan back to digital (?): does this give you adequate quality? I'm especially interested in this technique since its the cheapest but also because i imagine the 'sloppiness' of the bolex/krasnogorsk adds a movement/breathing that could be quite interesting for e.g. the shots that were filmed on a gimbal. 
Questions: 
- has any of you experience with filming from a screen / projector? If yes, I'd appreciate some tips regarding technique. 
- I guess in all the cases above it would make sense to have a digital master that is rather a little more overexposed than underexposed? 
- ho do overexposures end up on the film negative/scan back? does it get more organic or does it stay rather digital in its aesthetic? 
I hope I could express myself understandably. 
Best
Janis 

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