[Frameworks] advice on working with 3383

[Ryder White]

hi Sarah,

i’ve enjoyed shooting 3383 as a camera stock and processing as reversal in
the past - there are probably others here with a lot more valuable
experience than i have since i haven’t been doing much hand processing for
the past few years, but i’m glad to pitch in what basic knowledge i do
have. i also found this page in my notebook (from 3.5 years ago, yikes):



so like most print stocks, 3383 doesn’t have a factory rated ASA. i shot it
at approximately 3 ASA outdoors with an 85 filter. i wish i could better
remember my thought process behind that choice but it seemed to work out
okay from the test samples i found. iirc, the film is expecting to see
artificial light from a contact printer, so shooting in daylight without a
filter yields a very blue, flat image. anyway, trying to figure out
exposures at this level of sensitivity is kind of a roll of the dice…but
print stocks seem to tolerate overexposure pretty well so just bomb it with
as much light as you can.

chemistry…yes E6 works. i used a similar kit made by tetanal. i think
you’ll probably want to buy the gallon kit, if the arista kit is like the
tetanal one, the indicated volume is the final mixed volume per solution,
i.e. the quart kit makes a quart of working solution of each of the first
developer, colour developer, and blix. be mindful that colour chemistry is
a fair bit more harmful/sensitizing compared to b/w chemistry, so i
strongly recommend good PPE and ventilation - and use extra caution with
dried chemical spills or drips. please forgive me if that’s already
something you’re aware of! e6 is also very unforgiving with regards to
temperature variation. i was fortunate enough to have use of a tempering
bath, but just as long as you make sure your solutions are right on temp
right before you pour them in, it should be okay. you can always hold the
film in a water wash before moving to your next stage if you need to warm
something up or cool it down.

remjet - correct, no remjet removal needed. however, the stock incorporates
some dyes in the antihalation layer that are removed in process, so wash
with warm water very thoroughly before you begin until it comes out clear
(it will start purple). the first time i processed it this way i didn’t
know that, so i threw it straight in the first developer and turned my FD
dark purple.

i was trying to remember more about this whole process and came back across
kodak’s data sheet for 3383, which you may find interesting:
https://www.kodak.com/content/products-brochures/Film/VISION3_5219_7219_Technical-data.pdf

also worth mentioning that 3383 is an estar-base stock, so it’s good to
keep a scissors on you in case you end up needing to cut it because you
won’t be able to break it with your fingers.

hope that works! have fun -

ryder





Ryder Thomas White
(he/him)
SENT FROM MOBILE


On Sat, Nov 11, 2023 at 10:14 Sarah Bliss <bliss at sarahblissart.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I’d like to try shooting and hand developing 3383, which I’ve not used
> before and am seeking advice and tips on shooting and developing.
>
> What ASA is it rated?
> Do you use a filter of any kind?
> I’ve been advised to use an E6 kit to develop. Yes?  What size kit should
> I purchase to develop a couple of rolls? Would I need 4 of these quart
> sized kits, (to make a gallon), or do the solutions get mixed with water to
> total a gallon?
>
> [image: Screenshot 2023-11-11 at 1.09.13 PM.png]
>
>
> Arista E-6 Chemical Kit for Processing Slide Film 1 Quart
> <https://www.freestylephoto.com/11861-Arista-Rapid-E-6-Slide-Developing-Kit-1-Quart>
> freestylephoto.com
> <https://www.freestylephoto.com/11861-Arista-Rapid-E-6-Slide-Developing-Kit-1-Quart>
> [image: favicon.png]
> <https://www.freestylephoto.com/11861-Arista-Rapid-E-6-Slide-Developing-Kit-1-Quart>
> <https://www.freestylephoto.com/11861-Arista-Rapid-E-6-Slide-Developing-Kit-1-Quart>
>
>
> I’m assuming that 3383 doesn’t have remjet, so no need for extra steps to
> remove that.  Is that correct?
>
> Any other thoughts/tips you might have are most welcome!
>
> thanks kindly,
>
> Sarah
> http://www.SarahBlissArt.com
>
>
> --
> Frameworks mailing list
> Frameworks at film-gallery.org
> https://mail.film-gallery.org/mailman/listinfo/frameworks_film-gallery.org
>
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