[Frameworks] First time experiment, need words from the wise

[Zachary Iannazzi]

Mallary,

I really like the rapidograph inks,
You can buy just the cartridges
(they look like this- http://content.etilize.com/Large/1010037446.jpg)

I just got a box a few weeks ago from here-
http://www.westnc.com/rotring.html

scroll down,
you want Part#: 3080F.xxx*
which is,
"3/4 OZ Universal Ink, Available in Black, White & 8 transparent colors (Carmine
Red, Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Violet, Brown). Pigmented. Media:
Drafting Film, Absorbent Paper. Drying time: Fast "

and you can see what they look like over here,
http://vimeo.com/13616107

don't forget the hair dryer!

zzz



Quoting Jodie Mack <jodiemack77 at hotmail.com>:

>
>  Mallary,
>
>
>
> Doc Marten dyes produce vivid, saturated colors, and so do
> the inks from the felt/plastic cylinders inside permanent markers. (Rip
> markers
> open with your teeth and then squeeze away.)
>
>
>
> With the right copier, you can Xerox film through the side
> feeder. Use 11x17 paper, cut strips of film, tape them down, and side feed
> away. The copier will jam at times, but it is really fun. Clear leader will
> also take ink from a laser printer. (Inkjet will smear and wash away, which,
> of
> course, is a worthwhile thing).
>
>
>
> Another option: tape/ink transfer. Apply tape to printed
> paper (again, no inkjet). Submerge the paper in water. Wait a few minutes.
> Separate the pieces of tape. Rub off the paper pulp with your fingers (you
> might have to submerge it a few more times to get it nice and clean). Apply
> the
> wet tape to film, and leave it to dry. (1/2 inch tape fits 16mm perfectly
> without covering the left sprockets!). This process makes for thick film.
> But,
> as long as you lay it flat to dry, it works pretty well.
>
>
>
> Send all of your stuff to Seb at Niagara Custom Lab. He’ll
> strike you an interneg from which you can make the rest of your positive
> prints. He’s completely handmade-friendly and will touch things no other lab
> will. His prices are also righteously reasonable!
> http://www.niagaracustomlab.com/
>
>
>
> Also, if you haven’t already, it seems like
> you’re ready to score a copy of “Recipes for Disaster—a Handcrafted Film
> Cookbooklet,” a valuable jewel of a document put out by the legendary Helen
> Hill a few years back. This was online at some point, but now I can’t find
> it.
> I have copies if you want.
>
> JM
> NEW Hampshire
>
> Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 14:37:50 -0700
> From: mallaryabel at gmail.com
> To: frameworks at jonasmekasfilms.com
> Subject: [Frameworks] First time experiment, need words from the wise
>
> Hi Frameworkers,
> I've got some concerns/queries about a current project. For my first hand
> painted film, I'm using glass paint on clear estar 16mm and also I'm
> experimenting with flower petals, leaves, things of that nature. The
> particles I'm using are thin and light, so I haven't had any problems (yet)
> with bits chipping off or getting jammed in the projector. I want to use
> layers with great textures.
>
> I wondered if anyone had any other recommendation for paint, or ink, or
> stains. The glass paint I'm using is doing an OK job, but it dries really
> thin, so I have to keep layering it. Obviously I don't want to layer it too
> much, but I want the colors to be bold, thick and loud. I'd like to refrain
> from using acrylic or oils.
>
> Then I wondered also, much like painters can use gesso to transfer an image
> (newspapers/xerox copies), is there anything that can be done similarly?
> Entirely camera-less and without an  optical printer?
>
> Lastly my biggest concern is the workprint/telecine. Who will even do a
> workprint on such a risky film? Someone told me they "wouldn't touch it with
> a ten foot pole." But these films are made often, right? So someone has to do
> it? Or is to assume this naive?
>
> Any help on any of these questions would be sincerely appreciated...
> Thank you.
> Mallary Cut + Run Tour
>
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